
#Helicon focus multiple instance iso
f/22 ISO 100 Lens: EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM + tube – tripod For this image I wanted the largest depth of field possible so I used f/22 (f/32 was the max). You can then take the shot using a remote shutter release. Touching the camera after acquiring focus may move the camera slightly, but if you have the camera securely tightened to a solid tripod, and you are very careful when you hit the Live View release button, the camera shouldn’t move out of focus. I have Live View on my Canon 5D Mark II and I love that when I am shooting macros I can put it in Live View, then magnify the image on the LCD viewer, manually focus until I get it exact and then take the shot with a remote shutter release. It only makes sense then that if you want to be very precise in your focus, such as with macro photography, live view focusing would be a wise choice. When that happens, I try shooting from different angles in order to get as much in focus as possible.Īs mentioned in the focusing portion of these articles ( Part III), contrast detection autofocus is the most accurate way to focus, and the Live View mode on newer DSLR cameras use Contrast Detection for focusing. In some cases you may not be able to get the entire subject in focus even when using the smallest aperture opening. Earlier I wrote that you get the sharpest images using f/stops more towards the middle range (f/5.6 or f/8), but when shooting macros, you have to use the smaller apertures because the DOF is so small to begin with. The way to do that is to use a small aperture (f/22 or f/32). In order to get macro subjects in “tack sharp” focus a complete depth of field is very important. Selective focusing (where only one part of the subject is in focus) has its place, but when I see this technique used in macro focus photography it more often than not tells me that the photographer didn’t have the tools or the knowledge needed in order to properly capture all of the small, intricate details.įor instance, while all interpretation of photography and art are subjective, I personally would much rather see an entire insect clearly, as opposed to just seeing the eye of an insect in focus.

In my humble opinion, one of the biggest flaws in many macro shots is that the entire subject is not fully in focus. We Will Look at macro focusing in this article Brad Sharp POND LILY Tamron 180mm macro f3.5 IF 1:1 lens f/10 1/80sec. Macro photography classically means that the image you take is close to the same size as the subject when it is projected onto the camera’s sensor.Īs a result the DOF (depth of field) is going to be very shallow, which means that getting “tack sharp” images will require a little more work in order to capture enough depth of field so that all of your subject is in focus.
